22 September 2011
On September 3rd,Italian climbers Fabio Palma and Matteo Della Bordella, both members of Ragni di Lecco group, have completed their latest work in Wenden, with the RP in one day of Infinite Jest.
Matteo has climbed free all the pitches suggesting a grade between 8a+ and 8b.
Infinite Jest joins Coelophysis, opened by the the same climbers partnered by Adriano Selva and as Coelophysis runs on the wall of Mähren, one of the wildest and most isolated of Wenden
"This time it was tough" - says Matteo Della Bordella - "For a moment I feared that this year the free ascent was getting out of hand, and Saturday to climb the route in one day was for me the biggest surprise and satisfaction, after failing other times that I would have rather given for winning”.
The whole route is a little more demanding of "Coelophysis", even if the obligatory is not particularly high; certainly, " Non è un paese per vecchi” or “Il mito della caverna”" have more difficult obligatory, but on Infinite Jest you have so many pitches of 7a-b that really are not to be underestimated, where the style of climbing is very technical and protections spaced not allow to climb faster. So even if you must climb only 17 pitches, to do it all in a single day was hard. Some sections, it must be said, are also a bit dangerous. "
According to Matteo "it was the hardest multi-pitch route I've done ,
About the grade, says Matteo - "it's damn difficult to give a grade , the grade should be the same on mountain routes as in a cliff, but there are so many factors to be considered and you never know what weight to attribute. The be uncomfortable on belay and do not rest properly, for example, how can affect your performance? And spaced protections ? And the fact that he already climbed 15 pitches? Sometimes you're at your maximum potential, but what are your potential at that time? ".
These, however, the difficulties suggested, expecting the opinion of repeaters L1 6a L2 7b L3 7b L4 7a L5 8a+/8b L6 transfer L7 7a L8 7b L9 and L10 transfer L11 7a+ L12 5a L13 6c L14 6c L15 8a /+ L16 6c+ L17 7a+.
Source and other infos : Ragni di Lecco blog Fabio Palma blog Matteo Della Bordella