Ben Bransby and James McHaffie on Voie Petit (8b) on Grand Capucin
Third free repeat
18 August 2009
Ben Bransby and James McHaffie have made a sterling free repeat of the hard 450m Voie Petit on the Grand Capucin (3838m) in the Mont Blanc range. The crux is an 8b nearly forty metre long pitch, up a ninety-degree corner capped by a four metre roof.
Arnaud Petit and Stefanie Bodet opened this route in 1997. But despite doing all the individual moves, Petit couldn't link them without rests. In 2005 July 17, Alex Huber successfully redpointed the whole route in a day from the start to the summit after several attempts and graded the hardest pitch 8b.
In August 2007, the Czech climbers Vaclav Satava and Dusan “Stoupa” Janak made what they believed was the second free ascent. The route is protected by a mixture of trad kit, bolts and pegs.
Ben Bransby and James McHaffie reached the summit after spreading their climbing efforts over four days. James led the 8b pitch. Ben reports by text that: "Caff tried the flash but we were forced down for a couple of days by bad weather. Then it was back up and he fell off the last move on his first go at this pitch but did it next attempt. He flashed all the other pitches, some seconding me. Adam Long joined us for the first few days."
Source: site DMM