25 October 2010
On 2010, Oct 8 th, Daniele Nardi, Giovanni Pagnoncelli and Ferdinando Rollando have established a new route on Jägerhorn NW wall (3970 m) - Monte Rosa group.
The route called Direttissima is 950 m, 20 pitches, 60° on snow, 70/80° and some sections 90° on ice, several mixed climb pitches up to M5 (5c on rock), TD+. One piton left.
Here some details by Ferdinando Rollando :" Jägerhorn Direttissima follows the obvious couloir from the top of the Piccolo Fillar Glacier. It is the only logical way of ascent of the NE wall , the main wall of the Jägerhorn, bordered by the ridge of Jägerrucken (E), climbed in 1867 and the NE ridge climbed in 1965.
Start from the Piccolo Fillar Glacier and cross in the middle of the wall with three large iced sections (spaced with steep snowfields). The last part, less steep, was done on mixed climbed on inconsistent snow, Exit between the two peaks and for the last 100 m it took place on Jägerrucken.The team used 9 ice screws, pitons, cams and nuts, on rock hard to protect."
On top of the mountain, at the end of the ascent, one of the members of the team experienced a problem of frostbite in his feet, so the better solution appeared to call for the rescue helicopter.
Source and photos : Giovanni Pagnoncelli
Connected to the last line of the report of Pagnoncelli, to be noted the opinion and details given by Claudio Schranz, a Macugnaga’s Mountain Guide and a great expert of the Monte Rosa. Schranz recalled, for those who did not know it, his first ascent of the same channel - in 1977 with Marco Roncaglione, which was followed a week later, by the first ski descent.
The news was at the time published in the local press and magazines.
Likely the line followed by the team Rollando/Nardi/Pagnoncelli differs in some sections from the one of Schranz/Roncaglione, also because it doesn’t seem that Schranz rappelled during descent, abseiling, while the route of Rollando/Nardi /Pagnoncelli shows vertical sections of rock and ice.