21 June 2011
La 40esima estate (The 40th summer) is the new route opened by Rossano Libéra and Sabina Bottà on 2009 on the south wall of Punta Fiorelli, in Masino/Bregaglia group - Central Alps.
Punta Fiorelli, 2391 m is a granite peak dividing la Valle dell’Oro from Val Merdarola, in the western part of Masino/Bregaglia.
On the same wall and not far, Waiting list ( 280m, 6b, Corti and Tankis 1994) a nice modern itinerary, on perfect granite rock.
Another possibility is Quattro salti in padella (270m, 6c+ and 2 aid points) by Martinelli, Pavan, Penco and Serralunga - 2001 and on the south wall of Punta Medaccio some other pleasant modern routes..
Very nice and wild ambience, and beautiful overview on Val di Mello.
Punta Fiorelli (2391 mt.) South wall- LA 40ESIMA ESTATE – 275m. VIII 7 pitches
Approach: from Bagni di Masino across Val Merdarola in 2/2.30h, or from Bagni di Masino reach rifugio Omio in Valle dell’Oro and spend the night here (1.30/2 h). The day after across the valle dell’Oro, reach Val Merdarola throught Passo di Medaccio (1/1.30 h)
Descent : rappelling from Waiting List.
Gear : Friends up to 3,5 (camalot), nuts smell and medium
TOPO: SOLO GRANITO