17 January 2012
Alpinist has a preliminary report about the first "by fair means" ascent of the Compressor Route on the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre, by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.
Last year the team of the Canadians Chris Geisler and Jason Kruk came a whisker away from success, without using a single bolt of Maestri for progression, up to about 40 meters from the end of the Headwall, after which there is only the ice mushroom. Failed to complete their challenge, but it was a great result in every case.
Before of the Canadians, in 1999 Ermanno Salvaterra and Mauro Mabboni were thinking about this important goal, by opening a variant of the compressor route
But it was in 2007 that there is a big step forward, with Americans Zach Smith and Josh Wharton, who climb the Salvaterra / Mabboni route, then inaugurate a new itinerary that lends itself well to be free climbed and which differs a lot from Maestri route.
The two arrive up to the top of the first pitch of the Headwall and 4 pitches from the end, without using even a bolt of the compressor route; they reached the top of the route, but began clipping bolts in the final four pitches due to weather complications.
For the record, Smith and Wharton had proposed to reduce the bolts on Maestri line, generating very strong contrasts in the community of climbers.
3 weeks ago the team of Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk established a new route on Aguja de l'S.
Read more about the ascent of Kennedy and Kruk on Alpinist