Lama and Ortner New Route on Loska Stena

1300m 7 – M6 Alpine Style

06 March 2012   David Lama was not long without plunging into another adventure, after the incredible first full free ascent of Compressor Route on Cerro Torre . Next was a new route on Loška Stena North Wall on Group of Mangart, partnered – as in Cerro Torre - by Peter Ortner .   This is the wall that overlooks the village of Log Pod Mangartom in Slovenia near the Italian border. Higher than 1 km and wide 7, this wall is particularly severe in winter with ice and features sections alternating with hard rock.   There are many  lines opened on it by very strong Slovenian climbers over the years. Lama and Ortner started on February 25 along the first 400m untied and six pitches more challenging with the rope and then bivouacked on a ledge.   The next day, with intense cold , the duo continued encountering many difficulties, especially in placing protections and even the belays were not good, (they not used spit) but they had no choice but to continue, as  the retreat was almost impossible after the first 600 meters.   They placed the second camp on a ledge even smaller than the previous day , and at noon, 27 Febr  were finally on top. These are the difficulties of their itinerary: 1300m 7 - M6 Alpine style.   More infos and photos: blog  David Lama   Lama reports that the route requires a certain engagement, due to the difficulty in protections and recommended for a repeat to carry  a good assortment of pitons
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