12 September 2009
On June 28, the Swedish climbers Erik Massih and Oskar Alexandersson grabbed the FFA of Life is Beautiful (FA: Suzuki-Yamaoka; VI- 5.9 A2+; 5.13a, 7c+), on Nalumasortoq, Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland. They climbed the routes 14 pitches ledge-to-ledge in a 19-hour push using slightly different belays than were used during the first ascent. Massih describes the seventh-pitch crux as “long and sustained, technical and physical, perfect.”
The first pitches consisted of mainly loose and crumbling flakes, but nearing pitch five, the granite quality improved vastly, and “the climbing was pure pleasure,” says Massih.
Next came War and Poetry (FFA: Todd Skinner, Steve Bechtel, Mike Lilygren, Peter Mallamo, and Paul Piana, 1998; VI 5.12c) on the Ulamertorsuaq formation — War and Poetry is the free variant of the original route, Geneva Dihedral (FA: Dalphin, Piola, Probst, and Wietliesbach, 1983; 6b A4).