06 September 2009
On 2009 July 19, the Italian climber Manfred Stuffer - alpine Guide of Catores Group of S. Ulrich - free-soloed 1000 meters of rock in the Italian Dolomites in 3,5 hours: without a rope or harnes, he completed five routes ranging from VI to VII (5.8 to 5.10) on the North Face of the Torre Orientale di Mesules sector.
First up was Geo, a 230 meters route 5.10 with a difficult and big roof. Roped pairs typically take around three hours to complete this route; Stuffer did it in 19 minutes.
After this quick warm up, he made the solo ascents of two 200 meters 5.10s: Regenbogen - Rainbow and Quo Vadis.
Stuffer said: "Those two routes are very special for me. You climb on really small fingerpockets on a slab with poor footholds. Great satisfaction!"
Then he cooled down on Brunsin (5.9) and Brugger-Walde (5.8).
On 1998 Stuffer made the first redpoint of Underground at Massone - first graded 8c+ then later 9a.
In 2005 june onsighted la Via Attraverso il Pesce in Marmolada; linked in free solo in Tofana di Rozes Costantini – Apollonio (6c+), Costantini – Ghedina and 1° Spigolo in 5.30 hours from and to Rif. Dibona e (2180 m climb).
On the same year soloed Ottovolante at Torre Brunico ( 7a+; 360 m), at Pian Schiavaneis repeated “Linea Mortale”, (8b+/8c) and at Piz Ciavazes,made the forth and quickest rotpunkt of Via Italia '61 (8a)