Free ascent of Cleopatra in Wenden

By Matteo Della Bordella and Nick Voranburg

18 August 2011   Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by the strong climber Nick Voranburg from Ticino, has re-freed Cleopatra, a mythical route, with which Beat Kammerlander in 1993 introduced the grade 8a in the limestone massif of Wenden  in Switzerland.    The aesthetic line runs over a overhanging  pillar 250m long. The route shows difficulties up to 8a and 7a obl.,  protected with bolts, often widely spaced, and has an alpinist character due to the access, environment, and characteristic of the pitches.  For some years the break of few holds made apparently it impossible for a free ascent, but Matteo  in two repeats , has found a different beta, a little more psychological, also confirming, along with Nick, the same degree.   Source: Ragni di Lecco
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