02 October 2010
In July last year, the Swiss climber Matthias Trottmann with Thomas Scheuner had opened "Piccola Spada" an impressive route on the central pillar of the north face of Titlis (3238m), in 'Engelberg” in Switzerland.
This year Trottmann returned to the same wall, which is quite fascinated by, and managed to free his route " Piz dal Nas” 500 meters and 12 pitches with difficulties of 8b, and probably – according to Matthias – one of the most difficult on a North wall in the Swiss Alps.
"On 26 August, gave the forecast sunny and 30 degrees on the plains" Matthias told " So Martin Jaggi and I took the opportunity, started from Zurich and arriving at the foot of the wall we had the nice surprise to find it completely dry.
Already at the first few meters I had this incredible feeling of lightness. - writes in his report - "We went trought the first easy pitches, then there was an hard one that I leaded, then in two hours we were at the bivouac.
The morning after, the difficult pitch I called "Good Morning" was perfect, the next one "The shark”, which still I had not got free, was a real war of nerves.
I did the redpoint on the 3rd try and when, an hour later I had the tip of the "nose" in my hands, standing on the large sunny terrace, I could not believe it, my biggest project was made!
Thanks to Matthias Koenig, Daniel Schultz, Thomas Scheuner, Thomas Koenig, Dominik Seiz e Pascal Siegrist
The evening came a cold front and the wall were soon covered with snow .. "
Matthias Rottmann already bagged the free ascent of Silbergeier (8b, 7c, 8a, 7a, 8b / b, 7c) in the Rätikon on 2009, Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia and, in addition to the Piccola Spada on Titlis in 2009 the FA of "6.4 Sekunden" (8b) in 2006 in Engelberg in Switzerland.
Photos: Klaus Kranebitter
here other photos