Big new routes in the region of Chubut - Argentina -
Remote Piritas valley explored
11 April 2009
The remote Piritas valley in the region of Chubut, 30 miles from Puelo lake, at the border Chile Argentina, was visited this year by a team of Americans and one of Canadians, unaware of each other climbing activity in the area. The valley was explored in 2006 and 2007 by the argentinians Bicho Fiorenza, Pedro Luthi and Morsa Degregori. At that time was first summited Central Pirita on an easy couloir of the west face, and Left Pirita on a route of 5.10. The argentinians bladed a trail through the dense stands of bamboo-like cana colihue which resulted to be useful for the next parties. In february 2009, the canadian team formed by Paul Mc Sorley, Andrew Querner and Will Stanhope, after a difficult approach, climbed Todos los Caballos Lindos (5.11). Next march, americans Dave Anderson, Josh Becknere and Jared Spaulding climbed on Right Pirita Voces en la Noche (V 5.11 A0 650 m), following the system of cracks on the left wall. The route initially followed a sweeping dihedral that turned out to be the crux of the climb (5.11). From there, the americans followed series of cracks on the left side of the tower, and a short pendulum provided access to a splitter hands crack and another corner system. The rock was excellent fine grained granite and the route free climbed, except the short pendulum.