19 February 2012
Saturday, February 18, Pietro Biasini, belayed by Stephanie Frigière managed the first ascent of a great mixed pitch in Val di Mello. This is the start on rock of the big Mastro d’Ascia free standing climbed for the first time by Mario Sertori in February 2010.
Biasini has not used spits but he managed to place some friend and pitons. The result was a pitch of 55 meters, very powerful that climbs the overhanging and severe wall of the cave. Even the ice gave a lot to do to Pietro, in reason of poor protection. So a good fight to get to the belay,two solid fix placed by the opener of the free-standing.
He suggested the difficulty of M9/WI6. Biasini is an active climber who has repeated many difficult routes and opened numerous icefalls.
Recently, with the Swiss Luca Godenzi repeated Albert Leichfried's Felsige Gaerten WI 7 - and M8 in Austria. Pietro lives in Val Masino, in the village of Pioda, municipality of Ardenno.
Here is report:
Here is his report:
"... The pitch is really nice, starts 5/6 meters right of the pedestal for dihedrals and small cracks and then moving to the left under a first roof. Then there is a rest and another small crack under a second roof. At the end of this crack, you get to the ice, which is very difficult at the start, then passes between the candle and the rock and climb the pillar and you get out to the other side and continue to the belay .... The ice was very complex and the protections until 5/6 meters below the belay were very dubious ..... I did not use bolts.
For the section of mixed, bring friends up to # 3 Black Diamonds and some micro friends. For the second small crack of the ice micro nut offset DMM or a few pitons. On the left we have left 5 pitons in the mixed section where it was difficult to use fast protections. I had already tried the pitch last Sunday with Daniele Bianchi and Luca Turchi.
Today I went back to Stephanie Frigière and made the redpoint, suggesting a difficulty II/6/M9 55meters. The grades are also to be confirmed because I do not have a great familiarity with the mixed climb. I suggested WI6 for the ice for the precariousness of the protections. From my face you can see that fight I did with that pitch! ....