Petites Jorasses South Wall

Via Bonatti – Mazeaud

01 August 2011     The Petites Jorasses are – as their name – “small” compared to nearby most impressive Grandes Jorasses, but in any case, both from north and south have an attractive appearance and host  very interesting itineraries. One of these is the route that Walter Bonatti and Pierre Mazeaud traced in 1962 , fixing in a logical way the problem of the beautiful south wall. Federico Oggioni  with Leonardo Ermini, Tommaso Castorina and Nicola Andreini have repeated the route in recent days and sent us a report accompanied by appealing pictures.In addition to Bonatti-Mazeaud and to the classic Rivero-Castelli, the Italian side of Petites Jorasses is rich of very beautiful and challenging modern routes   ·         Pantagruel, ED+ (7b – 6b+ obbl.) M. Piola-D.Anker-B.Robert 1993, 450 m ·         Pure e Dure, ED+ (7a – 6c obbl.) M.Motto-R.Vogler 1993, 300 m ·         Gargantua, ED- (6c+ - 6b obbl.) M.Piola-G.Hopfgartner 1990, 350 m ·         Piano, sano e lontano ED (6c+ - 6c obbl.) M.Motto-R.Vogler-G.Predan 1993, 420 m ·         Manera/Meneghin ED- (6b/A1) U.Manera e I.Meneghin 1980 400m ·         Steve Monk TD+   C.Giorda, T.Gallo e G.Ghigo 350m ·         Rivero (south ridge) D (V grade - snow) A.Castelli e M.Rivero 1935 400m Base for the routes: Bivacco Gervasutti 4.30 h. from Lavachey - Val Ferret (Courmayeur) Source and photo: Federico Oggioni
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