25 December 2010
Max Belleville, Mathieu Detrie, Mathieu Maynadier and Seb Ratel (JMC crew) have carried out the the first ascent of Lunag II (6,830-meters) via the southeast face over three days in late October . The new route - Close The Door (1.200m, IV 5.5) - was climbed spending 3 days on the wall, topping at 10PM. From the summit, they made 22 rappels to the BC.
The team started on October 24 and began the climb in the afternoon, placing their first bivy 5,800 meters.
The following day they climbed up to 6.200 meters, and had to stop for one hour under an overhanging rock waiting for cooler temperatures for reduce the risk of falling rocks and ice. On the third day, the climbed on good ice and then on unconsolidated snow to the upper ice flutes, and finally a pitch on ice and two on the summit ridge to the top. On the cold wind, they found a spot to bivouac just below the summit to the north and put up their tents.
Too tired to continue the long traverse to Lunag I the next day, as planned, they rappelled the route, to the base camp. The first successufull ascent of a peak on Lunag Group was carried out by David Gottlieb and Joe Puryear (passed away last October) when on Apr, 2009 topped out Jobo Rinjang .
Source and photos: JMC crew