First winter ascent of "Aux amis disparus" at Matterhorn

Patrice Glairon Rappaz and Cedric Périllat

08 February 2010   French climbers  Patrice Glairon Rappaz and Cedric Périllat summited Matterhorn  ascending the route “Aux amis disparus” ED 6b/A3 at Zmutt nose.   The duo managed the first complete and the first winter ascent of the audacious itinerary established in 1992 by Patrick Gabarrou and Lionel Daudet.   They climbed the very steep route in 4 days and descended in one day by Hornli ridge; the rock was dry, but general conditions difficult, in reason of the cold and the wind.   "This route is traced on one of the most beautiful and representative mountains of the world "-Patrice Glairon Rappaz said - " and collects all mountaineering skills and is a testpiece per difficulty and commitment."   Patrice Glairon Rappaz was born in Ugine in Savoy and has an impressive curriculum; he winter ascended  Super Integrale de Peuterey on 2003 and Directe de l’amitié and Gousseault-Desmaison on Grandes Jorasses North wall; together with Stéphane Benoist managed on  2008 on the first alpine style  route (Are you experienced 2000 m 90° M5) on Nuptse south wall 7861m (for this ascent got the 17* Piolet d’or nomination)   Cédric Périllat is a member of the youth team of France Alpine Club.   Source: kairn  petzl Fhotos of the ascent: petzl  ms
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