First winter ascent of "Aux amis disparus" at Matterhorn
Patrice Glairon Rappaz and Cedric Périllat
08 February 2010
French climbers Patrice Glairon Rappaz and Cedric Périllat summited Matterhorn ascending the route “Aux amis disparus” ED 6b/A3 at Zmutt nose.
The duo managed the first complete and the first winter ascent of the audacious itinerary established in 1992 by Patrick Gabarrou and Lionel Daudet.
They climbed the very steep route in 4 days and descended in one day by Hornli ridge; the rock was dry, but general conditions difficult, in reason of the cold and the wind.
"This route is traced on one of the most beautiful and representative mountains of the world "-Patrice Glairon Rappaz said - " and collects all mountaineering skills and is a testpiece per difficulty and commitment."
Patrice Glairon Rappaz was born in Ugine in Savoy and has an impressive curriculum; he winter ascended Super Integrale de Peuterey on 2003 and Directe de l’amitié and Gousseault-Desmaison on Grandes Jorasses North wall; together with Stéphane Benoist managed on 2008 on the first alpine style route (Are you experienced 2000 m 90° M5) on Nuptse south wall 7861m (for this ascent got the 17* Piolet d’or nomination)
Cédric Périllat is a member of the youth team of France Alpine Club.
Source: kairn petzl
Fhotos of the ascent: petzl