22 July 2010
An all-female team, consisting of the Ukrainian Marina Kopteva, Anna Yasinskaya and Russian Galina Chibitok, succeeded in climbing the western wall of Amin Brakk (5850m) for the Czech express route (7b + 5.12c A3-A4 70 degrees) first ascended from Filip Silhan , Marek Holecek and David Stastny in September 1999.
The Amin Brake, located in Nangma Valley, Karakorum, is one of the largest and most complex walls of the world. It was attempted in 1996 by Jon Lazkano and again the following year in capsule style by the same Lazkano with Adolf Madinabeitia and Jose Carlos Tamayo, but after 15 days the trio was forced to withdraw 300 meters from the summit.
In 1999 the first ascent, by Pep Masip, Miguel Puigdomenech and Silvia Vidal: the Spanish climbers needed 34 days to complete the route - Sol Solet (VII 6C +, A5, 22 pitches 1650m).
The Czech express was the second route of the wall, the third route was The Russian route (A3 19 VI) first ascended by Arcady Seregin, Alexander Lastochkin, Sergey Kovalev and Valery Rozov in July 2004.
Marina Kopteva, Anna Yasinskaya and Galina Chibitok arrived at base camp of the mountain at 4385 meters on June 22nd and reached the summit on July 19th.
Marina Kopteva, leader of the expedition was born in 1981 and lives in Kiev.
In 2005 she was CIS mountaineering champion and in 2009 was awarded with the Steel Angel ,a special award for women climbers.
Anna Yasinskaya is born in 1981 and lives in Kiev: also she was awarded the Steel Angel. The two Ukrainian form a well experienced team and has already ascended together very difficult routes
Galina Chibitok lives in St. Petersburg and was twice champion of Russia.