31 Mar Mei Kotake up to 9a!
Mei Kotake climbs Era Vella, 9a in Margalef.
Freed by Chris Sharma in the first twothousand, Era Vella soon became the most repeated 9a in the world, with dozens of climbs. In recent years Margalef’s iconic route has broken a hold and the number of repetitions is practically stopped, until the arrival of the young Japanese climber Mei Kotake.
Lead competitions specialist, Mei Kotake is one of the strongest Japanese climbers ever, with excellent results both nationally and internationally. In this long Spanish holiday, Mei concentrated on long and endurance routes, climbing real masterpieces. In the list we find pitches such as Fish Eye (8c) and Mind Control (8c), both really climbed in a handful of attempts.
After a short period of conditioning on the rock, Mei started projecting Era Vella, definitely raising the bar. Before this holiday, Kotake had not climbed anything beyond 8b+, because of the focus on competitions. After eight days of trying, Mei managed to climb the legendary Era Vella, proposing a slight downgrade from 9a to 8c+/9a. Fun fact? Mei is just 154cm tall!
The next projects are on the resin, returning to compete in the maximum international circuit of leads.
From Mei Kotake’s IG page