Dani Fuertes, second ascent of Piztu da Piztia, the "Silbergeier of the Pyrenees" - Up-Climbing

Dani Fuertes, second ascent of Piztu da Piztia, the “Silbergeier of the Pyrenees”

Dani Fuertes made the first repeat of Piztu da Piztia, over a week ago (L6, 160m, 8b / + max) on Peña Montañesa in Aragon, compared to Beat Kammerlander’s famous Silbergeier in Ratikon.

Not only sport climbing for the very strong Dani Fuertes who hit the first coveted repetition of Piztu da Piztia on the Pyrenees, a 160m route till to 8b/+ on Peña Montañesa and for the first time, climbing even in the day.

Piztu da Piztia was opened by Eneko César, Mikel Sáez and Arkaitz Yurrita in 2014 who had solved all the moves but had not entirely climbed the pitches. The opening took place from the bottom with very little use of fixed protections if not where it was strictly necessary.

The following year, César accompanied Iker Pou for the first free ascent of the entire route, which however required the Basque champion more time than expected, two days.

“Arkaitz had told me about the route a few years ago” writes Dani, “and since then the question has interested me very much and this year I have found in Roberto Larripa the ideal companion to try it.

The first attempts date back to last January but we had been able to spend little time there. This time we also found excellent conditions, which is fundamental, everything went well until the fateful fourth pitch, the most difficult, it is also the last one, where I crashed and I had to do it again but luckily around 5.30pm we were out.

The protections are good apart from some sections where it is not possible to put anything even for 8 meters. I do not know there are other climbs let alone in the day, so I think it is the first. I think the comparison with Silbergeier is due to the quality of the rock, the difficulty and the type of protection even if I have never gone to Ratikon to try it. “

Fuertes has, among other things, at least three 9a, Supernowa, his first ascent in 2009, Fabela pa la Enmienda (2014) and La Bongada (2016) as well as the first ascent of No Pain, No Gain a Rodellar, his first 9a +.

news woguclimbing.com