Silvio Reffo and his "Viaggio su Plutone"
First free ascent of this Tondini and Sartori route17 October 2018
After one attempt some years ago, Italian top climber Silvio Reffo to Brentino and realized the first free ascent of Viaggio su Plutone (Journey to Pluto), a route opened by Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori but not all climbed free. Here some considerations about this great experience by Silvio.
Viaggio su Plutone, (7L, 8b+ max, 7c obb)
di Silvio Reffo
“All started in 2014, when Tondini invited me to try this new route opened with Sartori. That was not the first time for me in Brentino; some years before in fact, I did another multipitch opened by Tondini-Sartori team very hard. At that time, I try some moves on this incredible compact white rock and they asked me to wait cause they wanted to try the first free ascent. Some years after, the all free ascent of this route was again there.
During last months, thanks their consent, I returned with Matteo Pavana to reconnaissance but the weather of July was not ideal to try seriously. So I wait some months, till three weeks ago when returned again with Nicola Tondini. I was not in perfect status, I felt tired for climb of previou days. The second pitch is the hardest. I try one time just to test again the moves. Then Nicola starts but with no success so it’s again my workshift. Incredulous and a little surprised, I find myself at the chain without making mistakes!
After third pitch climbed thanks suggestions of my friend, there are easier sections and then last hard that requires all my last energies but happy, tired and satisfied, I realized the first free aascent of Viaggio su Plutone!"