30 years after first ascent, Max Didier and Siebe Vanhee freed Patagónicos Desesperados
The route of Piola and Anker on Aguja Poincenot resolved free and also "on sight" immediately after.14 February 2019
Max Didier and Siebe Vanhee climb Patagónicos Desesperados route in Patagonia (14L, 550m, 7th + max), opened 30 years ago and still had to see the first free ascent.
It was 1989 when the two strong Daniel Anker and Michel Piola went to the other side of the world and managed to open Patagónicos Desesperados, a route on the Aguja Poincenot. The conditions of the time had not allowed to resolve it in free climbing but in this very strange season in Patagonia, taking advantage of one of the rare windows of good weather, the Belgian Siebe Vanhee and Chilean Max Didier completed the first free of the route.
Curiously, Siebe and Max did not even know each other just a few weeks ago, but the bad weather of these weeks has changed the programs of various climbers and many climbers have found themselves in El Chalten. Some agreements were skipped and new ones were born and so Vanhee and Didier agreed to try this venture.
We immediately understand that they have not climbed a monster of difficulty, the maximum rank appears on the 7a+ (ex 6c, A3), but the first is still the Patagonia, according to the weather have still closed a project and the third is nice idea that they chased the story by going to find something interesting.
And only five days after this first, Italian Leo Gheza, accompanied by Andrea Tocchini as the second of the team, hit the first repetition and the first ascent “on sight” the route.
The first ever repetition of the route is instead of 2010 by Oriol Baró and Ramiro Calvo.