Alessandro Zeni climbs DonnaFugata on Torre Trieste

Dolomite adventures on the way to Hainz and Schäli

30 June 2019
Alessandro Zeni did Donnafugata, majestic and severe route on the south wall of Torre Trieste, Dolomites.

Climb in a harsh environment for Alessandro Zeni, as we have been saying for a few months now that he is engaged full-time in rock climbing and away (for now) from the competitions. In fact, on the magnificent Torre Trieste, Zeni repeated Donnafugata, opened by Christoph Hainz and Roger Schäli in 2004 and then freed in 2007 by Mauro "Bubu" Bole accompanied by Gabriele Gorobey. The route climbs 750 meters with an extraordinarily straight path and encounters difficulties until the 8a. Zeni was hoping for the on-sight of the route, something that failed but that still gave him a strong emotion and did not raise anything to the taste of climbing.

"Great adventure on the Torre Trieste together with my friend Andrea Cattarossi. I had never done a big wall and I must say that as a first experience it was more than positive. Our goal was to climb all 900 meters of the tower along the road difficult or "Donna fugata" (8a max; 7a obb.). I had the ambition to climb all the 25 pitches of the route in free, on the first attempt and during the day. In order to do this we knew we would have to climb fast and light and to be both very motivated, so we left in the morning at 5:20.

Unfortunately, after making the first 15 shots and being able to climb the 8a key pitch on sight, after 500 meters of wall, the energies totally left me falling on the next 7a+ pitch. From then on we were both really very tired and with a strong beating sun the only goal was simply to reach the top and go out during the day. After 12 hours and 48 minutes we are at the top, tired but happy more than ever and in another 4 hours, we are back at the car.

What can I say, despite the fact that I was not able to climb the route on sight, it was still a wonderful new experience, I learned a lot and I understood my limits and what to work to do better in the future on large walls like this. I don't consider it a failure, on the contrary it was a truly unforgettable day, spent together with a great person and friend. So sincere thanks and my compliments to the legendary Catta, a really motivated and energetic climbing partner!"

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