Lukasz Dudek, solo rope ascent of Tortour (8L, 280m, 8c max)

The incredible Polish climber centers on the probable just second ascent of Kemeter route

01 July 2019

Lukasz Dudek climbs Tortour, route on the south-west face of the Schartenspitze in solo rope, thus achieving a probable first repetition with an incredible style.

Climb of absolute level for the Polish Lukasz Dudek who in Austria, on the south wall of the Schartenspitze, climbed the Tortour route, freed in 2017 by Mich Kemeter and with a maximum difficulty of 8c. The choice also fell due to the proximity of the route, which is only 80 km from his home, and which started working about a month ago. Unexpectedly, he resolved rather quickly of the two hard pitches, L4 (8b +) and L5 (8c), closing them already on 13 June on the same day, while the following day the full ascent of the route entered.

This climb represents yet another piece of a crazy career for this mountaineer who, after a high-level sporting past, with a curriculum such as Martin Krpan and Made in Poland ascent, graded 9a, he has devoted himself to multipitch since 2013. Soon came the completion of the famous Alpine Trilogy which includes End of silence, Der kaisers neue kleider and Silbergeier, as well as route climbs such as the first repeat of Brento Centro on Monte Brento or Bellavista, Via degli Spagnoli and Project Fear in Lavaredo.



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