Mich Kemeter climbs free Tortour, 8c on Schartenspitze

Six years after first ascent, resolve this long time project doing free ascent

27 September 2017

After six years from first ascent, Mich Kemeter climbed all free his route Toutour on Schartenspitze, 8 pitch and 8c for him. In 2011 Mich opened it with Stefan Lieb but some pitch remained unclimbed. After some important ascent, like La Voie Petit on Monte Bianco in a day or the climb of Paciencia on Eiger with Roger Scheli, returned to resolve his project.

“Completing my climb up the SW Face of Schartenspitze transformed into a “Tortour”. Keeping focused for so many years, in order to find my way past the razor sharp boulder cruxes, up the steep weathered rock and through the repelling roof with its shallow pockets, turned out to be a highly rewarding experience. Motivation, my driving force. Six years ago I came up with the idea of devoting myself fully to a route I’d only manage to climb free after specific, long-term training. “Alpinfuzzi" Stefan Lieb provided me with the opportunity. In total, we needed nine attempts to forge a line all the way to the summit. It was my first experience at bolting a new route ground-up: tough physically and mentally at my limit.

Respect for the unknown. Taking into account my current form, the roof seemed impossible. Previously it had only been breached only with the use of aid, and my numerous free climbing attempts failed after just a few moves. Realizing this seemingly "impossible" was exactly the challenge I was after. I accompanied each move mentally for years. And I yearned to get good enough to finally climb the entire line free and in a single day.
The sun blazed high on the horizon, but my willpower was stronger.

In the middle of this year I spent six out of ten consecutive days to savour the joy of linking the last move. Belayed by my climbing buddy Paul Kiefer, we summited together and smiled. His ambition and motivation to support me fully - during snow, rain or darkness - rendered this project memorable and unique.”

Grade suggestion: 8c
8 pitches
280 m
6a+, 7a+/b, 7a+, 8b+, 8c, 7c, 6a+, 7b+
First ascent: 2011- summer 2012 with Stefan Lieb: ground-up with no previous knowledge of the line
First redpoint: 15 June 2017 with Paul Kiefer
Equipment: 12 Quickdraws, Cams BD 0,5 & 0,75

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