Robert Jasper opens a new route in solo-rope on Eiger
On the eve of a new expedition to Patagonia, climbs Meltdown (11L, 7a + max)02 October 2019
Robert Jasper, extreme mountaineer from the German Black Forrest, scores another first ascent solo in the world-famous north face of the Eiger!
This summer Robert Jasper took on another first ascent in his favorite wall, the historic Eiger north face, to prepare for an upcoming expedition to the largely unexplored northern inland ice of Patagonia.
He climbed through the face in terrain that had been untouched to date in rope-solo-style, which is considered to be one of the most challenging styles of climbing. Robert Jasper used only the natural features of the rock while at the same time belaying himself through the route. He was able to redpoint his route, which he named „Meltdown“ (7a+). It is now the newest addition through the most famous north face of the Alps!
Robert Jasper knows the Eiger’s north face like only few do! Despite of this, or maybe because of it, the wall magically attracts him. In 1985, being only 17 years old, Robert Jasper climbed in the huge wall of rock and ice for the first time. Today he can look back at over 360 days in the wall and many first ascents, first solo ascents, film projects like the IMAX cinema movie “The Alps” and a total of 19 different routes.
What he has noticed aside from the exciting adventures and peak performances is the rapid melting of ice and glaciers there that is cause by climate change! The ice fields were completely melted and had vanished for the first time in mountaineering history ever in the last summers! This inspired him to name his climb „Meltdown“!
It should be understood as food for thought and a call for action! Aside from decision makers in the economy and in politics each and every one of us has to make changes. “I believe we should all take personal steps against climate change. Otherwise it will be too late not only for our mountains but also for our future!” says Robert Jasper.
Facts to the first ascent:
Route: „Meltdown“, 7a+, 11 pitches.
First ascent: Robert Jasper, rope- solo-style redpoint, 2019.
Location: Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, Eiger north face, right part of wall.
High alpine rock/sport climbing route in very good Eiger rock! All necessary pitons/ bolts were left, 1 set Camalots 01-2 recommended for mobile protection, 50-meter ropes, descent via west flank!