20 September 2011
During Gore-tex Experience Tour, Scottish climber Dave McLeod has done in August the FFA of Bongo Bar 400 m 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b, on the north wall of Blåmann in Norway. Dave McLeod was partnered with Julia Snihur.
Dave was inspired to free the line by the Austrian climbers Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr's photos of their attempt to free the route. The crux is the 3rd pitch. David wrote "The two 7b+ pitches flew past and hanging on the belay 100 metres up the wall, inevitably expectations crept in to our minds. Speaking of expectations, Julia seemed to have no questions that I’d be able to dispatch the 8a (E8 6c) pitch above, and told me so in her direct but ever positive style. I launched up the pitch, climbing smoothly at first but wobbling into the crux and seriously losing my cool. I looked behind me for the crucial thumb press; it was wet, and so was the foothold. There was no time for hesitation and as I began to slip off backwards I threw my right hand across the corner without enough time to look for the hold first. Two fingers caught it and with a grunt I stayed on and continued with ‘Elvis leg’ all the way to the ledge."
read more on McLeod blog HERE