30 May 2012
Antonio Boscacci died today after a long battle against illness. He was born in Sondrio in 1949. He graduated in mathematics and teached in the schools of his city. He had inherited from his father Carlo, Mountain Guide, the passion for the mountains.
He was one of the inventors of the Val di Mello and one the leaders of “sassisti”, a movement that has given a great contribution to the evolution of climbing in Italy.
He was the wizard of adherence, a technique in which Antonio has never been surpassed, his masterpieces of fearlessness being Okosa and Cristalli di polvere, no protected and no return routes.
At the dawn of his activity, the legendary self-controlled "Bosca" was capable of great exploits by using a simple pair of sneakers.
He has drawn some lines that have become legendary as Luna Nascente, Precipizio degli Asteroidi (second ascent, the same day of Guerini and Villa) but also the impressive arch of Sette Aprile and the first real big wall of Qualido: Il paradiso può attendere.
Caused a sensation when in the ‘90s opened some routes lowering from top and using spit, and soon after, partnered with the strongest friction climbing Spanish specialists, , on the Precipizio degli Asteroidi , a masterpiece of daring never repeated: Nada por nada.
Antonio was a reference point for climbers of the '80s and ‘90s. His is a figure important in the Italian mountaineering history but difficult to classify, just for being outside any traditional values.
He has published two guides on the Val di Mello, and several other for hiking and skiing, activities that intrigued him the equal of the climb and where he has been a pioneer.
But his interests were varied, the history, botany, and especially writing; he has produced a lot of articles in many publications, often in the last year in the magazine Montagne Divertenti. His style was dry and very original. It is also engaged in the novels, the first published it in 2008 under the title Odore di merda.
On his biography - site of the magazine Montagne Divertenti – wrote about himself :
"He's gathering material for a book on the “Albino bat” of the Bekaa Valley. To friends he confesses that - if he could - he would like to become a Macroglossum stellatarum, a small moth, which looks like a hummingbird and s that appear every night on the fowers his balcony, when, exhausted, the sun has dragged its rays behind the Mount Rolla ".