Pou Brothers climbs the dangerous Marejada Fuerza 6 (8a+, 500m)
With Neus Colom did the sixth route on Naranjo de Bulnes06 September 2016
The Pou brothers, this time with the collaboration of Mallorcan climber Neus Colom, again making history in the Picu Urriellu, more known as Naranjo de Bulnes, doing the first free ascent of “Marejada Fuerza 6” A4/500 m (“Sweel State 6”). After an intense work this summer in Spanish most famous and international mountain, the trio of climbers complete in 12 hours "Marejada Fuerza 6", 500 m of verticality that crosses the imposing west face of the Asturian mountain. A bold and brave opening of Jose Manuel de la Fuente and Manolo Gonzalez in 9 days of summer 1985, and has had to wait 31 years to make his first free ascent.
But it has not been easy; the danger (potential falls of many meters with uncertain consequences and the real risk of a serious accident), exposure (Very few fixe equipment and many of them in poor condition due to their age) and difficulty (Forcing aid pitches of A4 and A3, wich in free climbing have reached up to 8a+) have made this climb has been a challenge of the highest physical and psychological level. Particularly difficult and exposed were the next pitches:
- 2nd: 7c in free with broken rock and a single fixed bolt.
- 3rd: 8a+ in free or A3 in artificial climbing. Only two fixed bolts.
- 5: The most dangerous with a difficulty of 7b+ in free or A4 artificial. Only two fixed bolts. It’s the most dangerous section of the climb as if dropped near the belay would give the body on a ledge and the accident could be fatal. Given the exposure of this section, the Pou gives them the feeling that artificial grade could have been even greater).
- 6: 7c in free or A3 in artificial climbing. Three fixed bolts.
Therefore, "Marejada Fuerza 6" (A4 / 500m in artificial or now 8a+/ 500 m in free) is the sixth route renowned for Pou Brothers in the Naranjo de Bulnes, after the first free climbed in a day of "El Pilar del Cantabrico" 8a +/ 500 m in 1.997 (An old A3); the first free climb of "Zunbeltz" 8b +/ 500 m in 2.003 (An old A4. The first free ascent still without repeating); the first free climb and in a day of "Quinto Imperio" 8b/ 500 m in 2.006; first ascent and first free climb in a the day of "Lurgorri" 8c + / 500 m also in 2.006; and first ascent and first in free in a day of "Orbayu" 8c +/ 500 m in 2.009.