New route in Val Porcellizzo, text by Luca Schiera
12 September 2013
Opened at the end of the last month by Luca Schiera and Giorgio Colzani, the route "Il vitello dai piedi di cobalto" is in Val Porcellizzo and was climbed the first time only using frineds and nuts (7a max). The name (literally "The Calf whit Cobalt Feet") is inspired by a famous italian song.
IL VITELLO DAI PIEDI DI COBALTO
by Luca Schiera
For a long time I wanted to look around the Pulpit: the particular geometric form and the stories about the quality of the rock keep me to verify by myself.
Whit unclear ideas, one morning I, Giorgio and Matteo started.
We climbed the first part in a long retains plaque finely eroded, so as to avoid the part grassy. We get under the wall enveloped by fog; I was going to open a new route but it's impossible to see anything.
Wait. For a few moments it opened a hole. I sensed a line extending along a series of "mushrooms", then whit a little crack. All became white again.
Start. A dihedral easy and after the wall, like a petrified wave, gradually reared and became overhanging above myself. I followed a holes line but this was interrupted, so I went down and tried a little to the right. I used here a good friend, went up again and whit some little holds arrived to a good place to belay.
My partner was not so excited like me but we continued folowing the erosions and after an exhibited slab pitch we arrived under the great final roof. Here, our line turned on the right crossing another route ("I think after") from when we went up to the top.
"Vitello da piedi di cobalto" (350m, 6L 7amax)
Pulpito, Val porcellizzo
Approach: 2h 30' from Bagni di Masino
Used only friends e nuts
more info ragnilecco.com
Thanks to Luca Schiera for article