16 June 2010
After two failed attempts on the Monte Brento, not far from Lake Garda, in the autumn of 2008 and the spring of 2009, on 25 May 2010, the Mammut Pro Team athlete David Lama succeeded in free climbing one of the most demanding multi-rope length routes in the world. at Monte Brento in Italy with 28 pitches at the highest difficulty grading. From the start, David and his partner Jorg (Verhoeven) were convinced it was an achievable feat. However, it pushed these professional climbers to their limits!
David’s report of the successful climb
"We got up at 3.30 am and set off towards the wall at around 4.00 am. An hour or so later, we began our ascent and an hour after that 400 metres of projecting ledges were already behind us.
The sun was burning and we soon realised that our water supplies, half a litre, were very low. Luckily there was some water in the portaledge that was still in place under the great roof. Seven pitches later, we came to the first difficult section. Jorg was in front and managed it on his first attempt. T
hings got a little trickier in the next section: a false step left me hanging on the rope a few metres further down. Jorg lowered me back and I managed it on the second attempt. The next three pitches went smoothly.
When we reached the portaledge, we rested for around an hour and a half and quenched our thirst. We had already completed 20 pitches. There were “just” eight left, but the going was tough. The rock is even crumblier here and climbing is extremely difficult. Including 8a+, 6a, 7b, 7b, 8a+, 8a+ and 8a+.
We started our countdown.. Jorg completed the first pitch – just seven more to go. I climbed the next one – just six now. We were pretty tired by then, making every pitch a battle. A seemingly endless battle. I was also concerned about the last pitch since I hadn't been able to check it out properly - it was wet on my last visit to the wall. We were 40 metres from the summit. It was my turn. I quickly assessed the key section. It was all dry. I tried my luck and I made it! Around 6.45 pm we finally reached the top. We had climbed more than 1,100 metres. We had opened the first route including 600 metres with more than 200 metres of overhanging wall."