Chappie (7b+, 600m), new route on Cordillera Blanca
Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl in Perù
21 August 2015
The two alpinists Roger Schäli (CH) and Simon Gietl (It) achieved a new first ascent on the granite monolith Esfinge (5325m). The mountain is located in Paron (Cordillera Blanca), Peru.
Alongside the first ascent the team also climbed the two routes „Cruz del Sur“ (7b, 900m) and the Classic „1985“ (6c, insight).
Their new route „Chappie“ is situated on the South-East face (600m), which took them five days until they reached the summit.
Roger & Simon: „It’s an amazing gift to be able to leave our mark on this mountain with this beautiful route.“
Protection: 8mm bolts are used on all belays; pitons and friends were also used for the first ascent.
Rock: solid, compact, steep granite; estimated time-span for repeaters: 1-2 days;
Gear: 2 sets of Camelots (up to size 2) and one set of rocks
Directions: 6-hour drive from Huaraz to Lago Paron; additional four hours for the steep approach to the base of the South-Ease face.
Team: Roger Schaeli, Simon Gietl, Friedrich Maderer, Frank Kretschmann