Interview about his super-route opened with Luca Schiera
15 January 2015
Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera opened one of the most interesting sport climbing route in Italy; a perfect mix of high difficult and funny climbing. The crag is Buco del Piombo in Erba, a small town in the north of Italy, a very important place for the development of climbing of the area thanks the presence of many easy other crags. This is La Divina Commedia (6L, 8b+ max).
During the last two years, Simone and Luca bolted this incredible line, unique for the line on an incredible roof. So, we spent some words with Pedeferri to have more info about his work and the first ascent
What kind of route is it?
It’s a very “muscular” route, where power and a lot of endurance is required. The climb is always on overhang or roof so you have to be in a “100%” status in general.
When the Divina Commedia project started?
I and Luca had this idea in 2013, more or less in November. In that period, the weather was really no good, like for all 2014. We had in mind other things but cause the rain, we wanted to bold a roof to climb also in bad conditions. The second reason is that I started to climb in that place, so for me was important to create a new main route in a place that I was born like climber. When I was 5 years old, I followed my parents and above all my uncle to the Sasso d’Erba, a very easy crag near Buco del Piombo. Those were the lightweight boot shoes and bandana years! I lived the change from alpinism to free climbing before and sport climbing then.
Was it all your work? What problems did you meet for a similar route?
Yes, I and Luca bolted the main part of the route, with some friend. To bolt a route like La Divina Commedia wasn’t easy for two main reasons. The first one was the line: on a overhanging route is never easy to do, in particular for roof section. Infact we bolted the first three pitch and part of the forth starting for the ground; the rest went down from the top. The second reason is the quality of the rock that in this place is not the best. In particular on the second pitch there was a very fine powder, very annoying.
And for the free ascent?
The third pitch was the hardest. In the middle there is a very particular boulder, a short one meter and half long section that is the crux of the pitch and the entire route. In addition, several times this section is wet: you can find the entire route dry with only some water on the crux! I spent four attempts for the first free ascent. When I bolted the pitch, tried every one doing the free ascent but I wanted to do the first free ascent from the ground to the top the same day so I had to return more then one time.
You are an artist and on your route there is a research of “beauty”. Did you find what you wanted on La Divina Commedia?
Only in part cause opening a route from the ground, you can express yourself in a different way respect to go down from the top. But on La Divina Commedia, bolting from the top was the one way possible for the upper section. In general is a unique route for me, like the wonderful lines in Chine for example or Mexico but is in the place where I started to climb…great!
What do you have to say to other climber the want to try it?
Training a lot! It’s a very power route and find a good weather period, with no rain for a lot of days before. It’s a typical sport climbing multipitch, without run-out. We are waiting the second ascent…came on guys!!
La Divina Commedia route (8b, 8a+, 8b+, 7c, 7c+/8a, 7b)
Buco del Piombo, Erba (Como, Italy)
Bolting: 2013-2014, Simone Pedeferri, Luca Schiera & Co.
First Free Ascent: 2014 July, Simone Pedeferri.
Photo and video: www.michelecaminati.com
Interview by Stefano Michelin