Simone Pedeferri and the first ascent of Io Non Ho Paura (7L, 8b/+ max)
Over a decade for the first ascent
22 May 2015
Simone Pedeferri released in April Io non ho paura, twice incredible. Once for its incredible history and once for his grade and style. It's on the Scoglio delle Metamorfosi in Val di Mello. This is a world premiere. There are currently no photos, no reports, or sketches. There are only beautiful words of Simone telling us about this new incredible adventure.
SIMONE PEDEFERRI, IO NON HO PAURA
"It started over ten years ago when Alberto Marazzi and I opened the first pitch. For what we got from the bottom never attempted before and we have equipped the first length. From there it was forgetfulness; not found members to finish it and also I have devoted long to other things until one day I decided I had to put myself above and complete it. It's not something I do often, it is only the third multi pitch that I open. In addition to having difficulty finding mates, I was also skeptical about the ability to switch from below.
In 2005-2006 so I ended up the route but it is back again into oblivion. Here, while it was as always hard to find a friend so patient as you work hanging in the shooting stop, the other is very, very rare to find the right conditions to climb. The line passes the casting of black rock of Scoglio delle Metamorfosi, a rock itself extremely smooth at this point and is also dominated by a lawn that after the rains pour long ago a lot of water.
Also for working routes, I am lowered from above. It's a technique that is taking more and more, so you do not have to depend on a partner. It's also happened to be there with two friends, Mirko and Daniele, who believed it was impossible to speak on the second length. It 'a smooth wall, ever found in only two other places here in Masino, with footholds really ridiculous! Only after trying the steps I am also convinced that I could really go.
By mid-April, the conditions were good. It had not rained for a while and not too much snow had accumulated at the top over the winter. I'm so gone with Stefano, with whom I had done a couple of other climbs, I tried two days and the third I made the first ascent of the whole route. For me, this is true only if you do all routes in a day. I knew very well all the routes; I only did a flight on the first route, then the rest is left up smooth output.
Back home, they gave in a television movie that I really like and so I also found the name, Io non ho paura, with a clear reference to that wall and its history for me. The second length is estimated around 8b/+ and is the most difficult and it would be absolutely impossible to open it from the bottom. The binding is not very high, 7b, and the whole route is well protected with bolts, even on the steps hard, then psychologically it is not extreme. Still it needs a series of micronut to use on one, two and six route.
I want to dedicate this multi pitch to the great Luciano Barbieri, climber of Milan very visionary and trained and I hope it does not end up like other routes and never paid more climbs, like Anarchia. Who want to try is the Welcome! "
VAL DI MELLO, SCOGLIO DELLE METAMORFOSI
IO NON HO PAURA
8a+, 8b/+, 6c+, 7c+, 7c, 6c+, V
7b obb, 250m
Free in more roudes by Simone Pedeferri and partners
Simone Pedeferri, april 2015