The secret passage

New free route by Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva on El Cap

23 October 2008 <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:70.85pt 2.0cm 2.0cm 2.0cm; mso-header-margin:36.0pt; mso-footer-margin:36.0pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} -->   The 6 of October2008 Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva have completed a new free route on the far right side of El Capitan. The Secret Passage (5.13c R, 15 pitches) combines two existing routes to the right of the famous Zodiac;  generally,  the new route,  follows the first 10 pitches of Eagle’s Way (5.8 A3) and the last few pitches of Bad to the Bone (5.9+ A4).   The route is extremely steep, and so the climb is very sustained, with a total of 15 pitches (5.10+ R, 5.11, 5.9, 5.10+, 5.12a R, 5.13c R, 5.13a, 5.12+, 5.12c, 5.13c, 5.12c R, 5.13a, 5.13a, 5.11 R, 5-10+). They added a bolt on an unprotectable face-climbing variation to the established aid line, and placed a bolt next to a rivet to make an anchor safe. They were able to free-climb the rest without adding any holes in the rock. The nature of the climb is quite run-out and dangerous at sections. One pitch is protected with hooks and fixed copperheads.
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