Val di Fassa - ice

Classic and new lines

04 January 2012   The Val di Fassa, in the heart of the Trento Dolomites, offers lovers of front-pointing a huge range of climbing on routes that are now classics. New, very interesting lines have been created in the last few seasons, and the Alpine Guide Tommaso Cardelli gives us all the relevant information. While we wait for the cold to arrive, here are details of the latest mixed and ice climbs from the last few years in the Val di Fassa.... In addition to routes such as Fontanazzo, Rio Pelous, Cassiopeo... already known and appreciated, new mixed routes have been climbed. These are more difficult than the classic waterfalls mentioned above, and offer even the most expert climbers plenty of challenges in placing their tools!! There are simply loads of opportunities in our valleys ... It’s important to say that information on who made the first ascents of frozen waterfalls is hard to come by, and so some “first ascents” may actually be repetitions!!! During the winter I’ll keep you updated on the conditions of the frozen waterfalls.... Enjoy yourselves! For more info: www.tommasocardelli.blogspot.com Tommaso Cardelli, A. Guida Alpina Thanks to: SCARPA, NORTHLAND SHOP, PEAK PERFORMANCE for the equipment supplied. Tupac Amaru - Carpe Diem: WI 5/M6 120 m. 3 pitches Trentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous. Tommaso Cardelli and Cristian Dallapozza 10/4/2010 Approach: park near to the foot of the “Col Rodella” at Campitello di Fassa;  walk along the cross-country skiing track towards Fontanazzo and after 10 minutes’ walking climb up a gully on the left until you reach the foot of the waterfall, 30 mins from the car (identify which is the right gully from the stada statale!). Equipment: ice screws, including some short ones, micro Friends + 0,75 BD. Bolts on mixed sections. Discent: abseil, bolted anchors Faces: North After a first easy pitch on an easy-angled slab, the waterfall rises vertically with a succession of delicate mixed sections and good sections on vertical, well-featured ice. In the first mixed section there are one bolt and one peg, in the second two bolts. Very nice and good fun! N.B. We have out recently that the “Carpe Diem” waterfall had been climbed by Giorgio Carlotti and friends, entirely on ice and without leaving any gear behind! The original name of the waterfall is “Tupac Amaru” and it had been graded WI 5°; the first ascensionists have agreed to the bolts being left at the stances and in the mixed sections. Fluido Giallo: WI 5/ M6 150 m  3 pitches Trentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous. FA Mauro Mabboni and Andrea Dorigatti in winter 2010. Approach: as for the classic “Rio Pelous”. Equipment: normal ice climbing gear. Mixed section bolted. Descent: abseil off the tree to the left of the waterfall then bolted anchors Faces: North Climb the first pitch of the “Rio Pelous” waterfall until the stance in the gully; from here, follow the slender frozen waterfall on the left of the gully for two pitches. The first pitch is entirely on ice; the second starts with a bolt-protected mixed section to then finish up a good runnel. Very fine line that can be combined with the classic Rio Pelous. Vecioti e Zovenoti : WI 5 80 m 2 pitches Trentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous FA Cristian Dallapozza, Luca Gasparini and Icio Davarda 13/12/2010 Attacco: park at the “Cercena” locality at Canazei and head towards Campitello along the XC skiing track. After 5 minutes’ walk, from along the “percorso vita” climb the evident gully on the left to the waterfall. 20 mins in total. (The frozen waterfall is obvious from the strada statale just before the “Caminetto” hotel coming from Campitello) Equipment: normal ice climbing gear. Descent: abseil off the tree to the left of the waterfall Faces: North Two very enjoyable and varied pitches; candlesticks and vertical ice in the first part with good moves to follow the easiest line; the second pitch is less steep but the ice is thinner and more delicate... Agghiacciante: WI 6/M8 120 m 3 pitches  Trentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous FA Mario Prinoth Approach: park at the lower station of the cablecar for the Col Rodella and proceed along the XC skiing track, towards Canazei. After 5 minutes’ walking climb the gully on the right and in 30 minutes you reach the foot of the waterfall. Equipment: normal ice climbing gear, some small Friends useful; the mixed sections have bolts for protection. Descent: abseil, bolted anchors Faces: North Lovely line which climbs the right branch of the waterfall with delicate mixed sections and hard ice sections. La bizzarra: WI 6+/M 8+ 140m 4 pitches Trentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous FA Mauro Mabboni, Oskar Bertarelli, Alessandro Lucchi (Alpine Guides course 2011) Approach: as for the last route Equipment: normal ice climbing gear; series of stoppers and Friends up to n° 1 BD Descent: abseil, bolted anchors Faces: North The most recent route in the valley, very fine climbing requiring a cool head since for much of the route you need to place protection... Difficult ice and delicate mixed climbing! P1: 40 m WI 6/ M6 (trad) P2: 45 m WI 6/6+ (1 bolt) P3: 30 m WI 3+/4 P4: 40 m WI 5+/ M7+ (2 bolts) Vernel Gully: WI 4/ M/ R/II 300m 7 pitches Trentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Marmolada-Vernal FA Tommaso Cardelli and Cristian Dallapozza 15/12/2010 Attacco: park at the start of the road which leads to the “Sevis” quarry at Pian Trevisan (Passo Fedaia) and head for the fore-structure under the Gran Vernel aiming straight for the obvious deidre on the right side of the face where the runnel is located. 25 minutes. Equipment: short ice screws, nuts, Friends n° 0,75-1-2-3 BD Descent: abseil off trees in the upper sections then on Abalakovs Faces: North A runnel in a lovely, quiet setting which seems more like a classic couloir in the western Alps than a Dolomitic waterfall! Succession of vertical ice, small patches of snow and mixed sections; placing protection is sometimes not easy, with very thin ice at times and you need to place rock protections. Senza Nome: WI 4+/M 150m  3 pitches Trentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous FA unknown! Approach: park at the lower station of the cablecar for the Col Rodella and proceed along the XC skiing track, towards Fontanazzo. After 5 minutes’ walking climb a gully on the left and in 20 minutes from the car you reach the foot of the waterfall. (Identify the correct gully from the strada statale!). Equipment: normal ice climbing gear and Friend BD n° 0,5-0,75-1 Descent: abseil off trees and Abalakovs Faces: North This waterfall is to the right of the classic “Rio Pelous” and has a first pitch in a chimney-gully with a wedged tree trunk then two good pitches on featured ice. It’s obvious from the road which leads from the centre of Campitello to the cable car parking place.              
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