"Samurai" 8A for Stella Marchisio VIDEO - Up-Climbing

“Samurai” 8A for Stella Marchisio VIDEO

 
At the end of October, Italian climber Stella Marchisio sent the boulder traverse "Samurai" (8A) in Varazze/Italy, located in the last sector (Lake) developed by her and her husband Christian Core  in Acquarium area of Varazze.

Here Stella reports on marmot  website : “I am very glad I did “Samurai”, it’s a great boulder, aesthetic, with beautiful ambience, located in a little canyon. The line has been discovered in the last sector we developed here in Varazze, the first ascent was made by my husband Christian Core, and watching him climbing this amazing line I decided to work it, too. In the beginning, I did the standing start from two logical holds on the corner (7C+).
Then I added another section starting lower from a the good big vertical hold all to the left, resulting in a logical traverse graded 8A.
It’s been difficult to work the problem. It’s hard: the holds are smooth and slippery, it’s in a closed canyon which sometimes is a little bit wet, it has some very bad feet, and also because there was a strong flood for two days making big damages at the houses and roads in Varazze’s town. So, for many days there was a little lake under the block, making it impossible to try the boulder.
 
When we found the water the first time we went back home, but the second time with Christian and other friends, we did a craft base with woodwinds found in the woods, allowing me to work it. In total, I spent six days working the problem. The first part is very physical for me, with two open arms movements. Afterwards the wall is about 15° overhanging with very small crimpers that require a precise use of the feet. It has the style I prefer.”
 

In October Stella sent others hard boulders in Magic Wood : “Jack the chipper” (7C),  “Blown away” (7B/+), and “Man of the cow” (7C – sit start).
Source: blog Christian Core ; marmot
 
 
 

Ph: blog  Christian Core

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