27 May Sarmiento Update
Last May 5th, we published the new of the great adventure of the Germans climbers Jasper, Heller and Gantzhorn and their first ascent of Mount Sarmiento’s West summit via the North face.
In our researchs we have already found and published that in 1986, Salvatore Panzeri, Lorenzo Mazzoleni, Bruno Pennati, Pinuccio Castelnuovo and Gianmaria Confalonieri, members of Ragni di Lecco group – had set foot on the West summit via the South wall.
In a kind email, a reader pointed out to us that the line of ascent of the Ragni is developed on the North (and not South) face, just left of the vertical descent from the top: La Odisea de Magellanes Jasper and C. climbed in 2010 is the second route established on this wall, the first being the one of the Ragni.
A confusion has also helped Lo Scarpone (monthly newsletter of CAI – Italian Alpine Club) in March 2006, page 20, where a long article entitled "The guides are celebrating the great day of Sarmiento" (at the photo exhibition for the 50th anniversary of first ascent) reported: "The Conquest of Sarmiento – which takes its name from the Spanish navigator Sarmiento de Gamboa – had a kind of "replication" in 1986 with an expeditions of Ragni di Lecco. Despite his 63 years, Gueret "Rampagarol" fought in that circumstance as a lion and lead up to the west along the south side with Gigi Alippi, Franco Baravalle, Pinuccio Castelnuovo, Gianmaria Confalonieri, Lorenzo Mazzoleni and Bruno Salvatore Panzeri Pennati.".
Some of the photos are taken from the interesting website of photographs and film maker Luciano Bovina, who released a documentary on Ragni di Lecco Sarmiento ‘s expedition. "At 20:00 (of December 24, 1986) – entry in his logbook – the scream of Bruno, Lorenzo and Tore rolling down the slopes of Mount Sarmiento up to Camp 2 and down to beyond the channel of Magellan, 35 days after announcing that the summit unclimbed West was won.
Ph.: Luciano Bovina and Ralf Gantzhorn