18 Oct New routes in Sichuan
Climbing reports that a team of American climbers, last September, has opened three new routes in the Changping Valley – a region of Sichuan – China. Chad Kellogg and Dylan Johnson left for China with the support of the Mugs Stump Award and Award of AAC Lyman Spitzer.
In their plans, there was the attractive "Nose" of the Yeti on the north side of Seerdengpu, but bad weather has hampered the climb and made necessary a change of plans: the action of the two has thus shifted to the east wall of the same mountain. At the third attempt, after many vicissitudes, Headwaters has completed a beautiful route on rocks, ice and modern mixed (dry-tooling) that reaches the top of the north – east ridge.
A few days after Kellogg, Johnson and John Dickey explored a rocky spire of 5086 m never climbed before closer to Seerdengpu, opening a classic route of about 600 meters, but failing to set foot on the summit due to only 25 meters of solid rock that did not allow any kind of traditional protection.
Meanwhile, Toby Grohne and Jesse Huey, also beneficiaries of a Mugs Stump Award – accompanied by John Dickey as a photographer and video operator – opened Forlorn Ridge, 40 pitches with difficulties up to 5.10.
A ride on a ridge in places like a sharp knife, all on the north east ridge of Celestial Peak or Pomiu of which they made the sixth ascent. But their adventure was not over yet: they set a bivy under Siguniang and during the night witnessing a downfall, which struck just where they were going to go up the next day …
They have no choice than do some bouldering, but also something unexpected happened here: Huey suffered a fall that causes several serious fractures and was transported to a hospital in Chengdu by his fellows Now he is in the U.S. and it seems to recover completely.
The team of mountaineers was part of Elevation Project, a program that provides for the establishment of a mountaineering school in Rilong, the most important town at the base of the mountains.
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