28 Jan Tito Traversa 8b(+)
On 23th January 2011, Tito Traversa (9 years) managed "Je est un autre" a hard route in the French cliff of Castillon, sector Traduction, graded 8b/8b +.
This is an outstanding result, considering the difficulty of the route, age, and the "reduced" height of the young climber.
The progression of Tito seems unrestrainable: on 2010 March 29th the first 8a, Faith in Donnas, at the beginning of August a couple of 7b + onsight in Arco, then in the same place two more 7b +’s on sight and a 7c + 2nd go.
In August 2010 the important on sight of Arachnide and Le plasir qui demonte both 7c’s in the Gorges du Tarn and Makach walou 7c + on-sight on the selective Céüse.
Finally, on 2010 September 29th, his 1st 8a+: Il dominio di sèin Champorcher in Aosta Valley and the 2nd on November 11, Sarre 2000 at Sarre roof.
Interview with Tito by Mario Sertori
Here is the story of the ascent of Je est un autre by the voice of the protagonist.
"Je est un autre"
After having climbed "Sarre 2000" at the Tetto di Sarre, I would have liked to have done something else there, but, unfortunately, it was winter. The Christmas holidays were here, I wanted to go to Spain but didn’t have very long.
Enzo Oddo had mentioned to me this route at Castillon, and I went to try it. The route was a bit damp but the big reaches seemed OK, and I decided to make a serious attempt at it. We came back at the end of the year, but the lower part of the route with the tufas was wet and the forecast wasn’t great.
We decided to stick around for 3 days, but the sun never came out and the route stayed wet. We came back on January 6th and it was still wet. Then the 7th and 8th it rained again, and on the 9th it was wet through. I didn’t even manage to get the quickdraws off: we left them on the route.
We came back again the weekend of 22-23 January. The route was finally dry, and I felt in good shape. After the usual warmup and one lap on the route, I was ready to try for the RP: I managed to climb the first hard part of the upper section of the route, where the route traverses right again, but I brushed against the wall as I dynoed before the clip, and fell. I had another go, but with no better results.
The next day, there was the first round of qualification for the Italian Championships, and I should have been leaving, but I decided to stay at Castillon to climb the route. I didn’t want to risk to come back after another two weeks and find it wet all over again.
Sunday, after the warmup, on my first go I fell at the same place as before. On the second go, I managed to stick the dyno with two fingers and said to myself, “come on… only two more bolts…" (UP: the hard section) and so I got to the last two hard reaches and clipped the chain! I saw smiling and yelling from the mix of joy, excitement and tiredness. On the ground they were shouting as well, and when I got down we all celebrated together.