{"id":111524,"date":"2022-05-06T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-05-06T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/falesia\/news-falesia-2\/bouin-dna-da-9c\/"},"modified":"2022-08-02T08:20:14","modified_gmt":"2022-08-02T08:20:14","slug":"bouin-dna-da-9c","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/bouin-dna-da-9c\/","title":{"rendered":"Bouin: a 9c DNA!"},"content":{"rendered":"<h5 style=\"text-align: justify\">Seb Bouin has climbed DNA, the second 9c in history!<\/h5>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Since <strong>Ondra<\/strong>&#8216;s ascent of Silence, only <strong>Megos<\/strong> had proposed 9c for his FA, which was later re-evaluated 9b+. From the end of April 2022, in this very small circle of super-gifted, a new name is making its way: <strong>Seb Bouin<\/strong>! The French climber has in fact come to the head of his hardest and longest project, born in one of the most important vertical climbing destinations in history.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">In the <strong>summer of 2019<\/strong> Seb sensed the line and laid the foundations for what would be his longest-running project. Three years later, with around 150 sessions of work, the perfect attempt has arrived. At the end of April 2022 Seb went to the famous <strong>La Ramirole<\/strong> crag (<strong>Verdon<\/strong>) and freed his masterpiece: <strong>DNA<\/strong>. With a great awareness of grade 9 in general and with the humility to leave the evaluation on confirmation to posterity, Seb proposes 9c. If confirmed, it would be the hardest route in France, the <strong>second 9c in the world<\/strong> and obviously the first 9c for him.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">DNA consists of a first part of 8c, which culminates with a rest and then some movement that inserts the climber on the first boulder, rated around 8A, really physical and random. After that another boulder problem around 8A+ tests the climber&#8217;s level, before the real crux. After this, an 8c+ section separates an excellent attempt from eternal glory.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Before making the perfect attempt, Seb spent several days on the route, in different months of the year. It is not easy to find the right day for a project so extreme&#8230; You have to match weather, conditions, training, mental form,&#8230; After several small trips dedicated to trying the shot, which at first seems impossible, Seb had it all clear, but then being able to climb it was another matter. After a first visit in early April, the second trip of 2022 was the right one, where everything fits perfectly.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The Verdon is not far from Italy, as it is not from Germany and the Czech Republic&hellip; When and by whom the first repetition?<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">From Seb Bouin<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Alessandro Palma<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Seb Bouin has climbed DNA, the second 9c in history! Since Ondra&#8216;s ascent of Silence, only Megos had proposed 9c for his FA, which was later re-evaluated 9b+. From the&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7925],"tags":[16877,18736,8334,13932,8160,8607],"class_list":["post-111524","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-bouldering","tag-9c","tag-dna","tag-first-ascent","tag-la-ramirole","tag-seb-bouin","tag-verdon"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Bouin: a 9c DNA! - Up-Climbing<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/bouin-dna-da-9c\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bouin: a 9c DNA! - Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Seb Bouin has climbed DNA, the second 9c in history! Since Ondra&#8216;s ascent of Silence, only Megos had proposed 9c for his FA, which was later re-evaluated 9b+. 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