{"id":45470,"date":"2008-09-26T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2008-09-26T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/falesia\/news-falesia-2\/9b-per-sharma\/"},"modified":"2008-09-26T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2008-09-26T00:00:00","slug":"9b-per-sharma","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/9b-per-sharma\/","title":{"rendered":"5.15b for Sharma"},"content":{"rendered":"

Chris Sharma completed his project at Clark Mountain (California) the name is Jumbo Love, the grade? 5.15b or 9b says Josh Lowell
\nThere are only three other routes in the world with this magic grade : Fred Rouhling’s Akira, Dani Andrada’s Ali-Hulk\u00a0 and Bernabe Fernandez’s Chilam Balam. The first two are long boulder problems the third is a massive 200ft pitch.\u00a0
\nThe name, Jumbo Love is inspired by the neighbouring route, Randy Leavitt’s Jumbo Pumping Hate (8b). Leavitt also originally bolted Jumbo Love like a three pitches similar to Jumbo Pumping Hate. Sharma saw a greater challenge in doing it in one massive 250ft pitch and re-bolted the line to facilitate this. Boone Speed said about the wall, "Fuck, that is the most amazing wall I’ve ever seen" .
\nJumbo Love starts with 60ft of 7c, then kicks back to 50 degrees and bouldery 8c+ climbing for a 100ft or so, then get’s really hard to easier 8a+\/b climbing right to the top of the cliff. Sharma took 100ft falls, as clipping bolts is nigh on impossible as the climbing is so hard, there is one jug on the route. The route tops out.
\n
\nEthan Pringle has attempted Jumbo Love. Pringle has redpointed\u00a0 Realisation, and has worked other Sharma routes including Dreamcatcher, Three Degrees of Separation, and Es Pontas (all three unrepeated). Pringle considers Jumbo Love, according to Lowell, as ‘leagues above all the others’ and "even mentioned that after working on it he’d been telling people it felt like 5.15c to him." (5.15c would be 9b+).
\n(info ukclimbing.com)
\n
\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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