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\nHigh level family-mountaineering\u00a0is very up-to-date at the moment, so after Germans Huber \u00a0and Basque Pou brothers \u00a0is now the turn of the South-tyrolers Riegler, Martin and florian, who climbed in 3 days two routes very peculiars for difficulty, exposition and protections: Caries at\u00a0Dente in Sassolungo and Zauberlehrling at Cima Scotoni., both in Dolomites. Caries (7c\u00a0traditional protections) was first ascended by Karl Unterkircher (recently died in Nanga Parbat) with Adam Holzknecht in 2003. The Riegler climbed it on sight on april 7th, climbing rotpunkt on april 11th the more difficult \u00a0Zauberlehrling, masterpiece of Christoph Hainz and Oswald Celva, 750m. 7c+ traditional protections.
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\n \u201ecaries\u201c
\n the route looks steep and difficult. the first few metres are brittle, then the rock gets better. tense and fully concentrated, we climb metre by metre. the hard winter\u2019s training pays off and i manage all 8 pitches on sight.
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\n \u201ezauberlehrling\u201c
\n we\u2019d heard a lot about the extreme conditions on the renowned cima scotoni climb. far more challenging than the \u201cfish route\u201d on the marmolada, a real gem in the dolomites and one which has never been attempted as a rotpunkt climb since the first ascent 19 years ago. 11 april, 2009, 4.30am. we ski to the base. in the grey light of dawn, we check our equipment one last time. we discuss everything in detail and reduce our equipment to the bare minimum. we\u2019re facing a 750-metre climb at grades 7, 8 and 9. it\u2019s ice-cold and we climb like stiff robots. after 15 hours, my concentration starts to fail. i no longer feel anything, neither pain nor joy. i just keep on climbing. at around 10.30pm, we\u2019re standing in deep snow. the summit, finally! we\u2019re too tired to be happy and immediately start our descent. we reach the car at 1am. than we cook spaghetti and are finally able to take it in: we completed the \u201czauberlehrling\u201d redpoint in one day.
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\n Florian Riegler
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\n Caries – Dente al Sasso Lungo
\n First ascent: Karl Unterkicher\u00a0and Adam Holzknecht \u00a02003
\n Length: 300m
\n Grade: 7c
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\n Zauberlehrling, Cima Scotoni
\n First ascent: Christoph Hainz\u00a0and Oswald Celva 1990
\n First solo: Pietro Dal Pr\u00e0
\n Length: 750m
\n Grade: IX (7c+)
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\n Source:www.rieglerbrothers.com
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\n\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u00a0 High level family-mountaineering\u00a0is very up-to-date at the moment, so after Germans Huber \u00a0and Basque Pou brothers \u00a0is now the turn of the South-tyrolers Riegler, Martin and florian, who climbed…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-45686","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n