{"id":45714,"date":"2009-05-13T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2009-05-13T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/baruntse-e-makalu\/"},"modified":"2009-05-13T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2009-05-13T00:00:00","slug":"baruntse-e-makalu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/baruntse-e-makalu\/","title":{"rendered":"Baruntse and Makalu"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The basque expedition &quot;Naturgas Makalu 2009&quot; of Alberto I\u00f1urrategi, Mikel Zabalza\u00a0and Juan Vallejo summited on aprile 24th in alpine style the peak of Baruntse (7.152 meters). The weather was sunny, but very cold and very windy. Alberto I\u00f1urrategi reamained very happy about the speed of the party and the cohesion: &quot;Baruntse is a very technical and beautiful\u00a0mountain and between\u00a0\u00a06700 and 7100 meters hosts a vertical wall that doesnt&#8217; forgive mistakes. A wind of 60 km\\h up there\u00a0is terrible. The alpinists remained only few minutes on the top in reason of the cold, and descented to the BC at 5300 meters from where they started the ascent on april 22nd. The ascent of \u00a0\u00a0Baruntse was considered as acclimatisation for another challenge, the first ascent\u00a0in alpine style of the West\u00a0Pillar of Makalu the fifth highest mountain of the planet. That route, one of the most technical of Himalaya, was first ascended by the french team leaded by \u00a0Robert Paragot\u00a0( Lucien B\u00e9rardini, Fran\u00e7ois Guillot, Robert Jacob, Claude Jager, Bernard Mellet, Jean-Claude Mosca, Jean-Paul Paris, Georges Payot, Yannick Seigneur and the MD\u00a0 Jacques Marchal) The summit was reached by\u00a0 Mellet\u00a0and \u00a0Seigneur. At Makalu, Alberto I\u00f1urrategi, Mikel Zabalza\u00a0and Juan Vallejo reached 6500meters\u00a0where they put a bivy. Then, between\u00a07300\u00a0and 7700meters, there is a vertical and difficult rock wall, called &quot;Seigneur Mur\u201d\u00a0( V+ e A2.) On may 7th, bad weather conditions forced the\u00a03 Basques to descent to BC waiting for an improvement. Alberto I\u00f1urrategi is the tenth man to complete all the 8000ers without oxigen;\u00a0Juan Vallejo\u00a0summited 8x8000ers and\u00a0Mikel Zabalza 2.&#013;<br \/>\nms<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The basque expedition &quot;Naturgas Makalu 2009&quot; of Alberto I\u00f1urrategi, Mikel Zabalza\u00a0and Juan Vallejo summited on aprile 24th in alpine style the peak of Baruntse (7.152 meters). The weather was sunny,&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-45714","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Baruntse and Makalu - Up-Climbing<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/baruntse-e-makalu\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Baruntse and Makalu - Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The basque expedition &quot;Naturgas Makalu 2009&quot; of Alberto I\u00f1urrategi, Mikel Zabalza\u00a0and Juan Vallejo summited on aprile 24th in alpine style the peak of Baruntse (7.152 meters). 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