{"id":45788,"date":"2009-06-11T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2009-06-11T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/2-nuove-grandi-vie-in-alaska\/"},"modified":"2009-06-11T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2009-06-11T00:00:00","slug":"2-nuove-grandi-vie-in-alaska","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/2-nuove-grandi-vie-in-alaska\/","title":{"rendered":"Alaska &#8211; 2 new super-routes"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nBrilliant activity of the Britains Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker in the Ruth Gorge in the Alaska Range. On may 10, in 12 hours, they ascended the demanding and difficult North wall of Mount. Grosvenor: they climbed a line of ice runnels then followed a beautiful gully to the east ridge, with a crux pitch of M6 on rotten ice and fragile volcanic rock then descended the south face to the col between Grosvenor and Mt. Church, and\u00a0continued to the glacier, returning to camp 20 hours after leaving. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe new route was called Meltdown (1,300m, ED3 V M6 R) and is located between.\u00a0Once Were Warriors (Walsh-Westman, 2005) and Warriors Way (Walsh-Westman, 2006).\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nTwo day later the same team traced a new and hard route on the north face of Mount Church, at the left of Memorial Gate (Ichimura-Sato-Yamada, 2007, first route on the face. &#013;<br \/>\nGood snow conditions allowed them to quickly reach a snow-stuffed, overhanging chimney high on the face. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nAfter Helliker\u2019s painstaking battle with this crux lead, 250 meters of snow flutings led to the east ridge, where more insecure climbing past big cornices and rotten rock gained the top, 10 hours after starting. They called the route For Whom the Bell Tolls (1,150m, ED2 V WI6 and mixed).\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nm.s.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSource: climbing.com<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013; \u00a0&#013; \u00a0&#013; Brilliant activity of the Britains Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker in the Ruth Gorge in the Alaska Range. On may 10, in 12 hours, they ascended the&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-45788","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Alaska - 2 new super-routes - Up-Climbing<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/2-nuove-grandi-vie-in-alaska\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Alaska - 2 new super-routes - Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u00a0&#013; \u00a0&#013; \u00a0&#013; Brilliant activity of the Britains Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker in the Ruth Gorge in the Alaska Range. On may 10, in 12 hours, they ascended the...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/2-nuove-grandi-vie-in-alaska\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/upclimbing\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2009-06-11T00:00:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"ricky\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"ricky\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"1 minute\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/bouldering\\\/news-bouldering\\\/2-nuove-grandi-vie-in-alaska\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/bouldering\\\/news-bouldering\\\/2-nuove-grandi-vie-in-alaska\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"ricky\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/c1239d9432a7365bdc5d12c8402f5657\"},\"headline\":\"Alaska &#8211; 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