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\nCalifornian Dave Turner, winner of a 2009 Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award from the AAC, soloed a major new route in Baffin Island during a 65 day expedition.
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\nIn early May, Turner attempted the unclimbed north face of Beluga Spire, a circa1.300 meter face rising directly from the sea ice. \u00a0He did two attempts, climbing\u00a0650 meters of the route, mostly along mixed snow, ice, and rock in a steep crack system, but when he tried to switch to rock shoes to begin pure rock climbing, he found his frostbitten toes quickly went numb. His toes\u00a0hindered his free climbing, making an alpine-style ascent impossible.
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\nAfter returning to base camp and a consistent rest, he chose to attempt the unclimbed north face of Broad Peak by a 1.450 meter line consisting of an elegant curving ar\u00eate, a steep snowfield, and a rock headwall.
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\nA few mixed pitches gained the sharp rock arete, which he climbed for hundreds of meters to the broad, easy snow slope. On the headwall, he found seven pitches of aid up to A3, with a final mandatory free-climbing slab move and mantel (roughly 5.10+) to reach a moderate ice ar\u00eate leading to the summit.
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\nHe made his route (VI 5.10 A3 60\u00b0) \u00a0on 39 hour nonstop push; this the second known line on the formation.
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\nms
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\nsource\u00a0dave’s blog\u00a0
\nwww.supertopo.com
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\u00a0 Californian Dave Turner, winner of a 2009 Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award from the AAC, soloed a major new route in Baffin Island during a 65 day expedition. \u00a0 In…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-45894","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n