{"id":46018,"date":"2009-08-16T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2009-08-16T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/2-prime-salite-in-libera-nei-bugaboos-canada\/"},"modified":"2009-08-16T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2009-08-16T00:00:00","slug":"2-prime-salite-in-libera-nei-bugaboos-canada","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/2-prime-salite-in-libera-nei-bugaboos-canada\/","title":{"rendered":"Two 5.12+ First Free Ascents in the Bugaboos"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe Canadian-American trio of Jason Kruk, Will Stanhope, and Matt Segal have completed the first free ascent of the west face of Howser Spire\u2019s Central Tower in the Bugaboos at 5.12+.&#013;<br \/>\nHowser Spire is a group of three granite peaks, and is the highest\u00a0mountain of the Bugaboo , located at the southwest corner of the Vowell Glacier , within the Bugaboo mountain range, in British Columbia, Canada.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nOn the West Face of the South Tower was traced by \u00a0F. Beckey e Y. Chouinard on 1961 August 8\\9 a route which is\u00a0considered one of the best free climbs of Canada; the North Tower was first ascended on 1916 with a climb that started the\u00a0mountaineering activity in Bugaboos; highly desired by the climbers its beautiful western face, nearly 1000 meters of vertical rock. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe smaller Central Tower was climbed \u00a0on 1955 by the North Ridge; the west face only in 1999, first in the month of July\u00a0by Offenbacher\u00a0and Davis who did \u201cFear and Desire\u201d and then &#8211; \u00a0one week later &#8211;\u00a0\u00a0by Sean Isaac\u00a0and Brian Webster\u00a0with Chocolate Fudge Brownie VI 5.9 A2 a line that\u00a0begins in common with the first three pitches of &quot;Fear and Desire&quot;, then continues straight up the right hand pillar. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nKruk, Segal and Stanhope used a three-pitch variation to free-climb Chocolate Fudge Brownie. After being weathered off the route once, they climbed the 10-pitch face in a long day, with the crux coming with a steep slab traverse to the right to avoid an un-freeable roof. Stanhope and Segal both took whippers from the crux before Kruk was able to link the moves, opening the door to the North Vancouver\/Miami Variation.\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThen the trio added Hazel Findlay to the team for a free attempt on Sendero Norte, \u00a0where Stanhope led the crux fingertrip crack at 5.12+.\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSource: Jason Kruk blog and climbing .com&#013;<br \/>\nvideo&#013;<br \/>\nms<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013; \u00a0&#013; The Canadian-American trio of Jason Kruk, Will Stanhope, and Matt Segal have completed the first free ascent of the west face of Howser Spire\u2019s Central Tower in the&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-46018","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - 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