{"id":46048,"date":"2009-08-25T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2009-08-25T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/terza-onsigth-di-divine-providence-monte-bianco\/"},"modified":"2009-08-25T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2009-08-25T00:00:00","slug":"terza-onsigth-di-divine-providence-monte-bianco","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/terza-onsigth-di-divine-providence-monte-bianco\/","title":{"rendered":"Third onsigth of Divine Providence &#8211; Mont Blanc"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSince 1990,\u00a0thanks to a\u00a0cooperation of the French Alpine Club\u00a0and the High mountain Group\u00a0were setted in\u00a0France &quot;GEAN&quot;, &quot;groupes Excellence Gar\u00e7ons et Filles&quot; or &quot;Alpinism Excellence Groups of youngs&quot;.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nEvery two years,\u00a0 the\u00a0selected youngs (both male and female) follow stages and carried out a project,\u00a0tutored by alpinists of international fame as well as Alpine Guides: for 2008\\2009\u00a0St\u00e9phane Beno\u00eest, Patrick Pessi\u00a0and Christophe Moulin.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe results are extraordinary.&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nIn August GEAN\u00a0was\u00a0on stage on Chamonix\u00a0and the achievements &#8211;\u00a0said Christophe Moulin &#8211; were outstanding. Among other excellent ascents, a team of 3\u00a0youth\u00a0with St\u00e9phane Benoist carried out the third repeat of the mytique route Divine Providence 7b+. This is the first time that &#8211; in a team of 4 climbers &#8211; all\u00a0climbed the route\u00a0flash or onsight&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0The route,\u00a0900m\u00a0on Grand Pilier d&#8217;Angle\u00a0Mont Blanc, was installed on 1984\u00a0by Gabarrou\u00a0and Marsigny\u00a0and climbed almost free\u00a0(3 aid points in a very wet section)\u00a0by Thierry \u201cTurbo\u201d Renault\u00a0and Alain Ghersen\u00a0on 1990. &#013;<br \/>\nSwiss climbers Denis Burdet\u00a0and Nicolas Zambetti\u00a0 did the first onsight (27\u00a0 28\u00a0July 2002), while the second was signed by the slovenian Andrej Grmovsek\u00a0and Marko Lukic\u00a0on 2003.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nTwo others youngs of GEAN onsigthed &quot;Les intouchables&quot;\u00a0\u00a0on Trident du Tacul\u00a0\u00a0 (the first time for a female climber,\u00a0Chlo\u00e9 Graftiaux ):\u00a0the route\u00a0\u00a0 &#8211; 250 m 7b+\u00a0was\u00a0 &#8211; \u00a0first climbed by\u00a0 M. Piola and\u00a0H. Bouvard\u00a0on 1992.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThen in the remote cirque of Freney, Pointe des Aigles\u00a0and \u00a0Pylone Centrale\u00a0du Freney\u00a0for the female climbers, and\u00a0\u00a0Voie\u00a0Lafaille\u00a0on Pilier d&#8217;Angle (900 m\u00a0up to\u00a04\u00a0243\u00a0m),\u00a0 Un autre monde &#8211; ED +) for a team of climbers with Patrice Glairon-Rappaz&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nIn Italy, we\u00a0should \u00a0meditate about the difference of strategies and goals between France and our mountaneering club, CAI. If strategies and given resources are so different, different are the results\u00a0 &#8211; in crag as well as in high mountain &#8211; achieved by the French alpinism.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nBravo!&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nDivine Providence &#8211; Up 2005&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSource: kairn&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nms<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013; Since 1990,\u00a0thanks to a\u00a0cooperation of the French Alpine Club\u00a0and the High mountain Group\u00a0were setted in\u00a0France &quot;GEAN&quot;, &quot;groupes Excellence Gar\u00e7ons et Filles&quot; or &quot;Alpinism Excellence Groups of youngs&quot;.&#013; \u00a0&#013; Every&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-46048","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Third onsigth of Divine Providence - Mont Blanc - Up-Climbing<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/terza-onsigth-di-divine-providence-monte-bianco\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Third onsigth of Divine Providence - Mont Blanc - Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u00a0&#013; Since 1990,\u00a0thanks to a\u00a0cooperation of the French Alpine Club\u00a0and the High mountain Group\u00a0were setted in\u00a0France &quot;GEAN&quot;, &quot;groupes Excellence Gar\u00e7ons et Filles&quot; or &quot;Alpinism Excellence Groups of youngs&quot;.&#013; \u00a0&#013; Every...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/terza-onsigth-di-divine-providence-monte-bianco\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/upclimbing\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2009-08-25T00:00:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"ricky\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"ricky\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"2 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/bouldering\\\/news-bouldering\\\/terza-onsigth-di-divine-providence-monte-bianco\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/bouldering\\\/news-bouldering\\\/terza-onsigth-di-divine-providence-monte-bianco\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"ricky\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/c1239d9432a7365bdc5d12c8402f5657\"},\"headline\":\"Third onsigth of Divine Providence &#8211; 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