{"id":46224,"date":"2009-10-01T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2009-10-01T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/nuova-grande-via-sul-nafees-cap-k7-karakorum\/"},"modified":"2009-10-01T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2009-10-01T00:00:00","slug":"nuova-grande-via-sul-nafees-cap-k7-karakorum","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/nuova-grande-via-sul-nafees-cap-k7-karakorum\/","title":{"rendered":"New route on Nafees Cap K7 Karakorum"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThanks to a recent grant from SPARC, the NZAC and the MEF\u00a0an Australian\/Kiwi team of Adrian Laing, Scott Standen, Bruce Dowrick and Jon Sedon \u00a0travel to the Charakusa Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan. They climbed a new route\u00a0 &#8211; Naughty daddies &#8211; on a huge buttress on the west side of K7 called Nafees Cap, 1000m of golden granite. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe base of the new route was at 5000m and led on to 620 metres of new climbing, joining the original route, Ledgeway to Heaven established on 2007 by Nico Favresse, \u00a0Sean Villanueva, Olivier Favresse and Adam Pustelnik. (1300m 7c 5.12+, 28 pitches up to 6.000 meters). On that occasion Favresse &amp; c.called the pillar in honor of their brilliant Pakistani guide, Nafees.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nUnfortunately snow conditions on the upper low angle sections \u00a0turned the team\u00a0around before the summit proper. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThey spent nine nights on the wall and placed two lead bolts. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe mostly wide crack systems provided excellent protection and a constant supply of water. Unfortunately Bruce and Scott suffered from altitude sickness beyond camp one and turned around, leaving Jon and Adrian to continue on to the the top of the route.&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nNaughty Daddies is 630m long\u00a019 pitches 7b. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe team used quick protection (except two bolts) and climbed on sight redpoint 16 pitches.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nsource: mojozone.co.nz&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nms<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013; Thanks to a recent grant from SPARC, the NZAC and the MEF\u00a0an Australian\/Kiwi team of Adrian Laing, Scott Standen, Bruce Dowrick and Jon Sedon \u00a0travel to the Charakusa Valley,&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-46224","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - 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