{"id":46242,"date":"2009-10-05T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2009-10-05T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/orco-valley-novit\/"},"modified":"2009-10-05T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2009-10-05T00:00:00","slug":"orco-valley-novit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/orco-valley-novit\/","title":{"rendered":"New routes in Valle dell&#8217;Orco (Gran Paradiso)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nMaurizio Oviglia &#8211; climber and author of climbing guidebooks &#8211;\u00a0established on summer 2009 new interesting routes on the beautiful granite of the well known Valle dell&#8217;Orco (Gran Paradiso &#8211; Italia).&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe results of\u00a0his work are aesthetical and attracting lines in trad style as at Torre Aimonin or Parete dell&#8217;Acqua Chiara, or routes\u00a0bolts\/trad protections\u00a0as on Parete delle Ombre. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nMaurizio is the author of the reference guide of this area, Rock Paradise : a brand new edition of this book will be soon released.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSource: up-climbing\u00a0\u00a0 pietradiluna.com&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nms&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nTorre di Aimonin&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nCani&amp;Porci \u2013 100 m \u2013 6c \u2013 Maurizio Oviglia with Paolo Seimandi\u00a0and Eugenio Pinotti&#013;<br \/>\nfirst ascended onsight\u00a0&#8211; free, in clean climbing&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nCani&amp;Gatti \u2013 60 m \u2013 6c+\/A0 \u2013 Maurizio Oviglia\u00a0with Paolo Seimandi&#013;<br \/>\nfirst pitch\u00a0clean climbing, 6c+. Second pitch to be freed probably 8a&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nParete dell\u2019Acqua Chiara&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nNiente di nuovo sul fronte occidentale \u2013 125 m \u2013 6c \u2013 Maurizio Oviglia\u00a0with Paolo Seimandi and Eugenio Pinotti&#013;<br \/>\n3 bolts.\u00a0A very nice crack of 25 meters&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nParete del Disertore&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nL\u2019antico maestro&#8230;Yodaparo \u2013 30 m \u2013 6a \u2013 Maurizio Oviglia\u00a0with Giampaolo Mocci&#013;<br \/>\ntrad one pitch\u00a0&#8211; first climbed onsight&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSiamo mica qui per divertirci! \u2013 30 m \u2013 6c \u2013 Maurizio Oviglia con Giampaolo Mocci&#013;<br \/>\ntrad\u00a0one pitch\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nFessura del Tramonto&#013;<br \/>\nEva Green \u2013 35 m \u2013 7a \u2013 Maurizio Oviglia&#013;<br \/>\none pitch (bolts and quick protections)&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nL\u2019Alba di domani \u2013 35 m \u2013 6b \u2013 Paolo Seimandi&#013;<br \/>\ncrack\u00a0 &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nParete delle Ombre&#013;<br \/>\nJ\u2019arrive! \u2013 165 m \u2013 7a+ \u2013 Maurizio Oviglia\u00a0with Giampaolo Mocci&#013;<br \/>\n3 bolts per pitch&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSergent&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nMi ritiro! \u2013 30 m \u2013 6b \u2013 Maurizio Oviglia with Giampaolo Mocci\u00a0and Valerio Bertoglio&#013;<br \/>\ntrad one pitch &#8211; onsight&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nMassi sotto il Caporal&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSensa Cugnisi\u00f9n \u2013 10 m \u2013 6b\/c \u2013 Maurizio Oviglia\u00a0with Paolo Seimandi\u00a0and Damiano Ceresa&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0trad one pitch on\u00a0thin crack&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nAvantgarde \u2013 25 m \u2013 6b+ &#013;<br \/>\nspectacular \u00a0trad &#8211; top rope on 1986 &#8211; redpointed&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nLa stanza dei bottoni \u2013 25 m \u2013 7a &#013;<br \/>\none pitch &#8211;\u00a0bolts&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nMastro Ceresa \u2013 15 m \u2013 7a &#013;<br \/>\none pitch &#8211;\u00a0bolts&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nLa riserva indiana \u2013 50 m &#8211; &#013;<br \/>\none pitch to free&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013; Maurizio Oviglia &#8211; climber and author of climbing guidebooks &#8211;\u00a0established on summer 2009 new interesting routes on the beautiful granite of the well known Valle dell&#8217;Orco (Gran Paradiso &#8211;&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-46242","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - 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