{"id":46554,"date":"2009-12-24T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2009-12-24T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/nuova-via-sull-aguja-poincenot\/"},"modified":"2009-12-24T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2009-12-24T00:00:00","slug":"nuova-via-sull-aguja-poincenot","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/nuova-via-sull-aguja-poincenot\/","title":{"rendered":"New route on the East face of Poincenot"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nRoger Sch\u00e4li and Simon Gietl of the SALEWA alpineXtrem Team have just achieved a first ascent of a route on the Poincenot east face in Patagonia. The two extreme mountaineers called the route \u201cF\u00fchle dich st\u00e4rker aber nicht unsterblich\u201c (\u201cfeel stronger, but not immortal\u201c). The parameters are 600 metres in four days; alpine style through the enormous bigwall, graded at A3+, 6C, M5.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe extremely demanding route goes along the Whillans ramp at the start and then runs vertically up the great Poincenot rock wall. Three combined rope pitches later and arrived at the exposed recess where the two climbers had barely enough space to pitch their tent.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nFrom that point onwards, the challenge was to climb the precarious 20-metre-high slab of sheer, flawless rock. That alone took Roger and Simon fifteen hours of pure effort, physical strength and the aid of two cliff. \u00a0When they finally arrived at a crack in the rock, they secured themselves before starting a 10-metre-high pendular traverse into an increasingly icy crevice. Leaving the airy headwall, they continued on into mixed terrain.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nAfter four days of climbing vertically, uncertain of success, the two mountaineers got the whiff of the summit. They quickly got over the final two rope pitches and were overwhelmed to reach the top of the Poincenot.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nBefore of \u201cF\u00fchle dich st\u00e4rker aber nicht unsterblich\u201c, the duo climbed the Californian&#8217;s route at Fitz Roy.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nLast August Roger Sch\u00e4li together with \u00a0Robert Jasper has done the first free ascent of the Japanese Direct Route on Eiger North Wall ; in the same month, Simon Gietl repeated La Perla Preziosa at Sass Dla Crusc, \u00a0a 375 metri, 7c+\u00a0trad\u00a0route FA in \u00a02008 by Tondini, Zandegiacomo and Sartori.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nColin Haley Whillans route\u00a0&#8211; solo&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSource:Salewa\u00a0 Eigernord.ch&#013;<br \/>\nPhoto: Salewa\u00a0Eigernord.ch&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nms&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013; \u00a0&#013; Roger Sch\u00e4li and Simon Gietl of the SALEWA alpineXtrem Team have just achieved a first ascent of a route on the Poincenot east face in Patagonia. The two&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-46554","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>New route on the East face of Poincenot - Up-Climbing<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/nuova-via-sull-aguja-poincenot\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"New route on the East face of Poincenot - Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u00a0&#013; \u00a0&#013; Roger Sch\u00e4li and Simon Gietl of the SALEWA alpineXtrem Team have just achieved a first ascent of a route on the Poincenot east face in Patagonia. 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