{"id":46692,"date":"2010-02-02T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2010-02-02T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/il-primo-wi10-al-mondo\/"},"modified":"2010-02-02T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2010-02-02T00:00:00","slug":"il-primo-wi10-al-mondo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/il-primo-wi10-al-mondo\/","title":{"rendered":"First World&#8217;s WI10?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nWill Gadd and Tim Emmet \u00a0climbed \u00a0what Gadd calls \u201csome insanely challenging and fun spray ice&quot; behind Helmcken Falls, in Wells Grey provincial park in British Columbia (Canada) . &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nA huge quantity of water blasted off the lip of a supposedly 140M cave, but no way was that going to freeze: even when it&#8217;s -30C out this waterfall is too high-volume to freeze.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nHere the duo established a 30-meter, 45-degree overhanging ice climb just \u00a0behind Helmcken Falls.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSpray from the 140-meter of \u00a0Helmcken Falls\u00a0to the volcanic rock created a unique style of ice route, where Gadd and Emmet put bolts, being others protections impossible to be placed.\u00a0\u00a02We wanted it to go on natural gear and screws, but the compact volcanic rock wasn&#8217;t having any of that. \u201c Gadd writes.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nAlthough, \u00a0Spray On is not a mixed route: \u201cNot one single drytool move in the whole pitch; pull up, lock off, work for a placement,\u201d writesGadd at his blog. \u201cJust like normal ice but on a 45-degree wall.\u201d\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nBoth climbers redpointed the route.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nAbout the difficulty:\u201c is a whole hell of a lot harder than anything I&#8217;ve ever climbed on ice\u201d &#8211; writes Gadd \u2013\u201c The only thing I could compare it too is M10 or harder drytooling, but you have to swing for placements instead of just hook. WI 10 is the lowest grade I can give it with a straight face; many people who can drytool M10 will find the ice climbing a lot harder I think, it&#8217;s real, honest, cuts-on-your face ice climbing. Not one single drytool move in the whole pitch; pull up, lock off, work for a placement. Just like normal ice but on a 45-degree wall. So much fun!\u201d &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSource:\u00a0\u00a0climbing\u00a0\u00a0e will gadd blog &#013;<br \/>\nPhotos:\u00a0will gadd blog &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nms&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013; Will Gadd and Tim Emmet \u00a0climbed \u00a0what Gadd calls \u201csome insanely challenging and fun spray ice&quot; behind Helmcken Falls, in Wells Grey provincial park in British Columbia (Canada) &#8230;.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-46692","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>First World&#039;s WI10? 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